How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats

Cats are simply adorable. They are cuddly and cute, and yes, they enjoy receiving so much attention. That is why sometimes, cats develop several annoying and destructive behavior and you should know how to deal with behavior problems of cats.
Cats are animals, and as such do not have enough reasoning to tell and distinguish right from wrong. But you, the cat owner, knows what is good and bad, and so it is your responsibility to help your cat act accordingly. You need to deal with the behavior problems of cats.
Behavior problems of cats are the usual problems cat owners encounter from their cats. Some owners really feel very annoyed by several of their cat's behavioral problems, so they just hire cat trainers for long-term solutions. Attitude problems are very common in cats.
If you have a cat, it is not enough that you shower your pet with utmost attention and care. It is your responsibility to instill in the cat righteous attitudes especially when there are other people living in your house. Being adorable and cute are not enough for the cat to get away from every offense it makes.
Tips for dealing with behavior problems of cats
Here are some practical tips that would help you control the unwanted behavior problems of cats. Take note that cats also need to act nicely especially when there are other people in the house or if there are guests:
Discipline your cat. This is one way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. You could teach the animal about right and wrong behavior. For example, if you see your cat do a nice thing, pat it gently on the head. Otherwise, push your palm on the cat's face. This would give it the signal that what it just did is not acceptable.
Do not surprise your cat. Cats hate surprises so to avoid behavior problems of cats avoid surprises. Do not disturb a sleeping cat or suddenly take away food from an eating cat. Doing so would provoke the cat and make it really angry to attack you or anyone.
Do not ever hit a cat whenever it does nasty things. This is not a good way to deal with behavior problems of cats. Hitting, just like in kids, is not very effective in making cats realize what deed is wrong. Do not ever teach your cat to develop fear of you.
Make specific cat misbehavior impossible to be accomplished. This is another good way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. For example, if the cat wants to steel food from containers, keep the containers tightly closed and sealed. Also make light objects and figurines in the house out of reach of cats, or place them in a glass cabinet.
For littering and waste elimination behavior problems of cats, you could invest in cat litter boxes. Cat litter boxes are very ideal in training the cat to urinate or eliminate feces responsibly.
Take your cat to the vet regularly. That way, you could immediately tell if there is a physiological problem in the cat. Behavior problems of cats may also due to pains. Usually, when cats fall ill, they also tend to misbehave.
Cats are possessive. They want your sole attention. If there are other pets in the house, your cat might sense that you are not faithful. To remedy this situation, do not let the cat see you care for and nurture other pets.
Use reward and punishment to deal with behavior problems of cats. To make the cat also behave properly, you could also make use of the reward system. For every good deed you see in the cat, reward it by giving its special cat snack. Whenever the cat does bad acts, punish it by not giving it any cat snack, though you must show the cat that there is cat snack that is supposed to be given to it.If you have tried the above mentioned tips and found no success do not lose hope, you can still tame your cat and you can have a much more rewarding life with your cat if you only learn a few secrets on cat behavior.







Did you know that you can transform your cat?s behavior with proven techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover how to end the behavior problems of cats visit Solutions to Cat Behavior Problems at All About Pets
Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats. You are allowed to publish this article in its entirety provided that author?s name, bio and website links must remain intact and included with every reproduction.

How to Identify a Neglected Cat

Many people think their cat's behaviors are because the cat was abused or neglected. I want to clear this up for you. Abused cats are rare. Most cats are just wary of strangers. Bad behavior is usually because they were never taught correctly or played with aggressively. So, how can you identify an abused or neglected cat? Let's look at what cat abuse and neglect look like and then we can talk about the cat's responses:

Cat Abuse can be intentional or unintentional. Usually, unintentional abuse is called "neglect" and is addressed by humane societies all over the world. There are actually three levels of abuse. Neglect, Over-Discipline (over use of discipline tools) and Intentional Abuse. This article addresses the Neglect, which is the most benign form of abuse.

Description of Neglect -

Neglect means not addressing the animal's primary needs for survival - water, food, shelter, rest and hygienic elimination. Then there is the more severe type, where a cat is forced to live in filth, confined to a cage all the time, or denied companionship with people or other animals. Many times, this can be caused by not spaying or neutering your pet. Unwanted kittens, or too many cats, is the primary cause for almost all of this type of abuse. Sometimes, a person is too ill or has allergies. Maybe a person is trying to keep a cat in an environment that makes it impossible to properly care for a cat.

I remember many years ago, seeing a homeless man walking down the street with his belongings in a shopping cart. Homeless people were harder to find then, so he stood out. He was pushing the cart with one hand and had a carrier with a cat in it, in the other. I felt sorry for both, but being a child, I didn't know what to do. The cat was experiencing neglect, but felt much love. The man, I'm sure, didn't know he was doing harm to the cat. He just knew that he couldn't let his beloved cat go into a shelter - at that time all the shelters I knew of were kill-shelters.

An older cat (over a year) has little chance of coming out of a kill shelter. Most people want a kitten. The grown cats are often given no more than 2 weeks to find a home and then euthanized. This heartbreaking situation often occurs when people lose their homes, develop allergies or find that they just don't want to deal with the discipline and behavior problems that developed in the cat. The single biggest reason people give up a cat is inappropriate elimination. Next, come allergies, followed by death of the cat's owner. Some cats are surrendered because the person moves and is unable to find pet-friendly accommodations.

I understood the man's feelings of love and concern for his feline companion. I also understood that the cat couldn't live in that carrier for long. There was no safe place for them. No homeless shelter would take a man with a cat. In this case, I think the abuse is unintentional - neglect, by description. However, I think the heart of both the cat and the man were in the right place, just that the situation was unfortunate.

In news reports, we sometimes hear of breeding farms where cats are bred to the point of exhaustion and kept in sub-optimal conditions. We hear of people who just keep bringing home strays until they are over-run and can no longer take care of them, and the cats become a neighborhood problem. All of these situations can produce neglect.

Now, let's turn to the cat's response to neglect. How does a cat respond? Why does it do that? By understanding the specific situation and response, we can address the resulting problem behaviors with love, patience and training.

Effects of Neglect

A cat left in a cage with other animals nearby is often skittish and afraid of people. It expects food and a clean litter box on occasion, but cuddles and attention may make it uncomfortable. These cats often have no privacy issues in the cage, but once free, they are very private about their litter habits. If the cat was kept in a small carrier, it may soil itself, or hold back elimination until it is very uncomfortable. It may be dehydrated and need medical attention. The cat will be overweight from lack of activity. It may be apathetic when play is offered, not knowing what is expected. Electric lights may be something that set off a fear response in the cat because it means that people are coming. In other cases, darkness may be scary at first. Once the cat's eyes adjust to the light level, it will be all right, but when the lights are turned off or on, the cat may cry or hiss. In the case of a cat kept in the dark except when people are coming, it may be fearful the entire time the lights are on, while also expecting food, water and a clean litter box to be provided.

What Can We Do to Help These Cats?

These cats don't do well with handling. The less you try to pet, hold or cuddle these cats at first, the better. Let the cat come to you. It will, given time. Be sure to care for it's creature comforts - food, water, bed, clean litter box - but don't expect a cuddly cat for a while. That will come when the cat feels that it can trust you. It may be afraid of the sound of your feet on the floor. It may run when you come into a room. As time goes on, the cat will stay and just watch you. Another time, you may be able to approach and offer a scratch behind the ear. Eventually, you will be able to give a full cuddle. Do not try to pick the cat up, but you can pet it and the cat won't run away or feel assaulted. When the cat responds with a purr, an offer of a cheek or an ear, or you can stroke the spine and the cat isn't trying to run away, then you have a cat that is only cautious of you. Continue until the cat comes for cuddles, which may already be happening. Still do not try to pick the cat up. If it wants your lap, it will come. This cat may still run from you if discovered in a windowsill, on a dresser or surprised in the litter box. Say your cat's name in a conversational tone and the cat will eventually not run away and perhaps allow a stroke. In the case of the litter box, just say the cat's name, but never try to cuddle a cat in the litter box. If you can provide a privacy screen, the cat may stay in the room.

These cats need socialization. They need to learn to live with others outside of a cage. They need gentle discipline and may not know the meaning of the word "no." They will love feeding time but be afraid if you need to walk near their food bowls, and run from the food. Give them time, move slowly and talk gently in their vicinity. They need to learn what people are about in a good way.

Once your cat has learned to trust you a little bit, enough to not run away when you enter a room or even starts to come to you, then you can begin to bond with your cat. A tickler wand is your best friend for this. Gently shake the wand so that the end twitches. Your cat will be interested, but may only watch at first. If your cat goes for it, excellent! When your cat gets hold of the business end of the wand, allow your cat to feel the success by keeping the wand steady for a few moments. When the cat lets go, you can start to twitch it again. The cat will play with you in this manner for quite a while. When the cat tires, put the wand up out of the way so that your cat is forced to play with you, not just the wand. If your cat grabs the wand in it's mouth and tries to run away with it, offer resistance and don't let go of the wand. Some cats want to take the wand and hide it under a couch or in a corner so they can worry over it for a while. Don't allow this - the cat needs to play with you, not just the wand. After about ten days of playing with the wand, you will see your cat become more accepting of its new circumstances. Your cat should assimilate into the household well. There may be people it does not accept, and those persons can also play with the cat to promote bonding.

Under no circumstances should you perpetuate the abuse or neglect! Any discipline needs to be done gently and with care. A squirt bottle, long a favorite tool for discipline, should only be used in the beginning stages of training, while the cat is learning the word "no." After that, you should not need it. Redirection is your best training technique. When your cat gets into or expresses interest in something that you don't want to see it getting involved with, redirect it's attention to something that it is allowed to be involved with or have.

Some of these cats can be clicker trained, but the bond with the person needs to be present, first. Concentrated training to condition the cat to the clicker will be needed. Some cats may be so skittish that even the best treats will not condition the cat to the clicker. If your cat runs from the clicker after a week of conditioning, do not continue. Your cat will never be comfortable with the unexpected noise it makes. You are better clapping your hands and saying "no" to stop bad behaviors than trying to clicker train for positive behaviors.

These cats will be extremely grateful for good treatment. One expression of that love, biting, may not be acceptable - especially if the cat bites hard and uses the canine teeth. Push your hand or finger into the mouth instead of pulling out so that the cat will not be able to bite down and cause you injury. You can push in hard enough to cause the gag reflex, but never harder. Never cause the cat injury in response to an injury to your person. Hitting is never acceptable - but raising a flat hand so that the eyebrow whiskers can feel it is acceptable.

If you must pick up your cat, as in putting the cat in the carrier or removing it to another room, pay attention to the cat's body. Be sure to pick the cat up by the ribs and the hind legs at the same time to minimize stress to the cat. If the body is stiff, don't hold the cat to your chest. Allow the cat to struggle, but stay out of the way of the claws. When you place the cat down (don't let it jump), stroke its back if you can. Talk to the cat. It will stop a few paces away and look at you. The cat may come to you for a scratch if offered. Always talk softly and lovingly to your cat.

In Closing -

With all these admonitions and dos and don'ts, you may think that a neglected cat is too much trouble. Not that much, really. They take some time getting used to people, but once they trust you and know you have their best interests at heart, these cats will come to love you very much. The early stages with a neglected cat are the most critical. After that, you may find a loving, caring, demanding cat. Demanding because it may never want to be separated from you. Demanding because whatever it was denied before it will crave from you. Moreover, you will be loved, very deeply. It will care about you in its fashion. If your are down or blue, possibly sick, the cat will worry over you and try to find a way to comfort you. These cats are very responsive to their people. Hypersensitive is a good description. Empathic is another good description of their behavior. Some cats even approach a symbiotic relationship with their people.

Give love and patience, and love and patience will be returned. Give concern and care and those are returned. A neglected cat is one of the best pets for a single, older person. The cat will be tuned to that person in short order. It will give love and affection to ease the loneliness and loss these people sometimes experience. When the person is ill, the cat will understand and be there to comfort, while allowing the person to care for him or herself.

Morgen Marshall, a cat whisperer, invites you into her world of cats. She created a website dedicated to making the relationship between cats and people harmonious and healthy. For the Love of Cats is a place for people who love cats to find answers from someone they can trust.

How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats

Cats are simply adorable. They are cuddly and cute, and yes, they enjoy receiving so much attention. That is why sometimes, cats develop several annoying and destructive behavior and you should know how to deal with behavior problems of cats.

Cats are animals, and as such do not have enough reasoning to tell and distinguish right from wrong. But you, the cat owner, knows what is good and bad, and so it is your responsibility to help your cat act accordingly. You need to deal with the behavior problems of cats.

Behavior problems of cats are the usual problems cat owners encounter from their cats. Some owners really feel very annoyed by several of their cat's behavioral problems, so they just hire cat trainers for long-term solutions. Attitude problems are very common in cats.

If you have a cat, it is not enough that you shower your pet with utmost attention and care. It is your responsibility to instill in the cat righteous attitudes especially when there are other people living in your house. Being adorable and cute are not enough for the cat to get away from every offense it makes.

Tips for dealing with behavior problems of cats

Here are some practical tips that would help you control the unwanted behavior problems of cats. Take note that cats also need to act nicely especially when there are other people in the house or if there are guests:

Discipline your cat. This is one way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. You could teach the animal about right and wrong behavior. For example, if you see your cat do a nice thing, pat it gently on the head. Otherwise, push your palm on the cat's face. This would give it the signal that what it just did is not acceptable.
Do not surprise your cat. Cats hate surprises so to avoid behavior problems of cats avoid surprises. Do not disturb a sleeping cat or suddenly take away food from an eating cat. Doing so would provoke the cat and make it really angry to attack you or anyone.
Do not ever hit a cat whenever it does nasty things. This is not a good way to deal with behavior problems of cats. Hitting, just like in kids, is not very effective in making cats realize what deed is wrong. Do not ever teach your cat to develop fear of you.
Make specific cat misbehavior impossible to be accomplished. This is another good way to deal with the behavior problems of cats. For example, if the cat wants to steel food from containers, keep the containers tightly closed and sealed. Also make light objects and figurines in the house out of reach of cats, or place them in a glass cabinet.
For littering and waste elimination behavior problems of cats, you could invest in cat litter boxes. Cat litter boxes are very ideal in training the cat to urinate or eliminate feces responsibly.
Take your cat to the vet regularly. That way, you could immediately tell if there is a physiological problem in the cat. Behavior problems of cats may also due to pains. Usually, when cats fall ill, they also tend to misbehave.
Cats are possessive. They want your sole attention. If there are other pets in the house, your cat might sense that you are not faithful. To remedy this situation, do not let the cat see you care for and nurture other pets.
Use reward and punishment to deal with behavior problems of cats. To make the cat also behave properly, you could also make use of the reward system. For every good deed you see in the cat, reward it by giving its special cat snack. Whenever the cat does bad acts, punish it by not giving it any cat snack, though you must show the cat that there is cat snack that is supposed to be given to it.If you have tried the above mentioned tips and found no success do not lose hope, you can still tame your cat and you can have a much more rewarding life with your cat if you only learn a few secrets on cat behavior.

Did you know that you can transform your cat?s behavior with proven techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover how to end the behavior problems of cats visit Solutions to Cat Behavior Problems at All About Pets

Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including How to Deal with the Behavior Problems of Cats. You are allowed to publish this article in its entirety provided that author?s name, bio and website links must remain intact and included with every reproduction.

How to Litter Train a Cat

For most cat owners, training their cat to use the litter is a relatively painless process. It is among a cat's natural instincts to eliminate in an area that they can cover their feces in. This behavior may be a way of your cat accepting what they perceive to be as the natural order of dominance. In the wild feral cats will bury their feces if they are not at the top of their social hierarchy, if a feral cat does not bury his or her feces it is likely that the cat exhibiting that behavior is the dominant feline. So when your housecat buries his or her waste he or she may be recognizing your role as the dominant animal in their social community. It is also possible, however, that your cat may be displaying his or her inherited instinct to bury his or her feces in order to hide their trail from would be predators.

Generally kittens will learn the behavior of burying their feces and using the litter

through their mother once they are weaned assuming the mother is litter trained.

So if you bring home a young kitten of about 12 weeks, you may only need to

place kitty in the litter box and gently scratch the clean litter with your fingers

shortly after she eats to indicate to her what she is to do.

KITTY DIDN'T TAKE TO THE LITTER RIGHT AWAY

If your new cat doesn't take to litter training after your first few attempts you may

want to consider teaching her using another common method. Confine your new

addition to a small but comfortable room, preferably one with a hard floor if you

have one. Place both the litter box and the food dish in the room but don't place

them close to one another. Your cat will naturally not want to defecate near its food

source so she will look for another area. Eliminate any pillows, blankets,

newspapers, towels or other soft items where your cat may decide to eliminate from

the room before you close her in. If you have confined your cat to a room with hard

floors she is likely to avoid eliminating on the floor since urinating is likely to splash

back and get on her fur. The only remaining choice to the cat at this point is

(hopefully) the litter box.

MY CAT STOPPED USING THE LITTER

If your cat was housebroken and all the sudden she seems to have

forgotten that instinct there are a few possibilities you might want to consider

before giving up.

1. Does Kitty Have A Dirty Litter Box? The most common cause of a

housetrained cat to stop using the litter is your cat

disagreeing with the level of cleanliness regarding her litter box. Your cat is more

likely to

stop using the litter if she feels that it is too dirty. It is best to clean your cat's litter

every day or at the very least every second or third day. The dirtier a litter box gets

the less likely it is that your cat is going to continue to use it. Your cat wants to

eliminate in a clean environment and if she notices that every time she eliminates on

the carpet you immediately run and clean it up she perceives that as a more

desirable place to eliminate because it is so quickly cleaned. Keeping your cat's

litter as clean as possible is the best way to avoid this problem, and remember, what

you consider clean, your cat may not.

In addition to emptying the litter, you obviously need to change it from time to time

as well in order to ensure good cat health and cleanliness. Weekly changing is best,

this ensures that odors and wetness won't have too much time to build up to

unacceptable levels and it also reduces the likelihood of sickness due to high levels

of bacteria.

2. Stress. A cat eliminating outside of the litter box may also be a sign for

stress.

The introduction of a new person or animal into the household may be putting a lot

of stress on your cat. Cats generally like to feel like they know what is going on and

what they can expect. If you upset that balance by introducing a new creature (even

a two legged one) into the household they may get stressed which can cause them

to eliminate outside the box.

If you leave your cat alone for long periods of time (for example while you take

vacations or go on business trips) and you come back you may

notice that your cat will sometimes seem aloof and standoffish. This is another

instance in which your cat may react with eliminating outside the litter box as a sort

of protest to what she perceives as being abandoned.

A new piece of furniture, or conversely, a newly missing piece of furniture may also

put stress on your cat. Order and comfort are important if you are a cat. If you

decide to get rid of that old fabric sofa because of it's ugly pea green color and

because it's falling apart at the seams and then you replace it with a brand new,

slick, top of the line, leather sofa with a refrigerator built into the side, and a

massage and heating function, your cat is unlikely to see this as a stylish upgrade

the way you would. What your cat will probably see is that one of her favorite nap

spots has disappeared only to be replaced by something she is unfamiliar with and

intimidated by.

3. Changing Litter Brands. Cats are creatures of habit and can also be

quite finicky (remember Morris, the 9 Lives cat?). If you've recently switched the

brand of litter you usually buy this may be cause for your cat to find another place

to go. Some litters are perfumed (for humans rather than cats) and your cat may

not react well to these smells, or perhaps your cat was used to a less dusty type

of litter, a particular litter's texture, or who knows what. Changing brands or types

of litter may upset what your cat is comfortable with and the result may be a messy

carpet. If you suspect this to be the cause, you can either switch back, or

gradually introduce the new litter. Try mixing in a little bit of the new litter with the

older brand at first and gradually step up the percentage of the new litter each time

you change the box, eventually you will be able to replace the older brand

altogether. This will help your cat ease into the new litter brand rather than upset

her sense of the order of things.

4. Multiple Cats. As mentioned above a second animal may cause a cat to

begin to

eliminate outside of the litter box, but this may not necessarily be the result of

stress. A second cat in your household should probably have his own litter box

unless your cats have proven they don't mind sharing. Again, remember cats are

clean creatures and they can be territorial as well. Some cats may not mind using

the same box, but others may refuse, which means again, the carpet becomes litter

box number two.

5. Litter Box Size Or Placement. If the litter box does not provide enough

room for

your cat she may not use it at all. Your cat will likely want to scratch around and be

able to feel comfortable in the litter box. Make sure it is roomy enough, easy

for your cat to get in and out of (the sides of the box should be lower for kittens

than for adult cats), and not in a high traffic area as cats seem to like some

degree of privacy when eliminating. Lastly, make sure your cat has access to the

litter at all times. Putting your litter box in a room that is closed on occasion is a

recipe for disaster. If your cat has to go and she can't get to the room that you've

put the litter in then she really will have no other alternative than to find another

suitable area to eliminate.

6. Medical Issues. Your cat may be experiencing kitty incontinence. Like

humans,

incontinence can strike animals and this may be an indication of other medical

issues with your cat. As a cat ages, she becomes more likely to lose control of her

bodily functions just like a human does. If you suspect age or medical reasons may

be the cause for your kitty's litter box problems then you should take her to the vet

for an examination, advice and possible treatment to resolve the problem.

WHEN YOUR CAT MAKES A MESS

If your cat does make a mess outside of the litter box it is generally not good

practice to scold her or punish her. Putting her nose in the mess and then tossing

her in the litter is not going to solve your problem. Being upset with your cat is

natural after such an incident, but to display this behavior and then to put her in the

litter box is only making your cat associate the litter box with a bad experience.

Your cat may also begin to learn to be afraid of you, which is obviously not what you

want. Your best solution is to clean up the mess quickly. Put your cat in the litter

box and be friendly and speak in a calming voice with the cat. Scrape the clean

litter with your fingers and make sure your cat sees this behavior, hopefully it will

sink in. To avoid having your cat defecate in the same place outside the litter box a

second (or third) time, cover the area with a plastic sheet or something hard that

will result in your cat splashing herself with her own urine if she should chose that

place to defecate again. Clean the smell as best you can (white vinegar may help,

but make sure your furniture or carpet can handle it). You can also move her food

dish on top of or near the area that she used to defecate, a cat will not want to

defecate near her food source. If your cat uses the litter again, even just once,

reward her, play with her, pet her, give her a treat, make her associate the litter box

with a good experience rather than a bad one.

A cat that eliminates outside of the box is not a lost cat. Don't give up on her until

you've explored the possible reasons for the problem. Once you find it, you can

most likely correct it and kitty and human can live a happy co-existence once again.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related grapchics and gift merchandise.

How to Solve Litterbox Problems in Multi-cat Homes

When we have only one cat and she misses the litterbox, it can be hard to fix. When we have more than one cat in the house, it can be even harder. Here's a step-by-step guide to help stop litterbox problems in a multi-cat home. first of all, act fast. A litterbox problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. Litterbox mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household. Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.

Find the culprit. Before you even try to determine the "why," figure out the "who." If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory. If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluorescein for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.

Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many litterbox problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause litterbox mistakes. Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don't skip the trip to the vet.

Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It's always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his litterbox mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem. During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like litterboxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every litterbox mistake, then look for links. Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.

Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you'll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to "reapply," clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat's sensitive nose. Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren't standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area. Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less "cat-friendly."

Make the current litterbox more appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The litterbox should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important. This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won't be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.

Retrain the cats. If it doesn't seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself. Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the litterbox. Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box. Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you've determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the litterbox during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat's preference to the box.

General stress reduction. In some situations, it's difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes. For litterbox problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources. Extra litterboxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches. Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the litterbox problem.

Litterbox problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.

Keith Londrie II is the Webmaster of http://cat.about-animals.info A website that specializes in providing information on cats that you can research on the internet at your own pace. Please Visit http://cat.about-animals.info now!

Information on Extreme Cat Urine Cleaners, Removers and How to Clean Cat Urine

Cat toilet training in easy steps:

Toilet training your cat is an easier task than you might think. Several techniques can be used for training your cat to use the toilet, and you can even buy products that will assist you in toilet training a cat.

The advantages of cat toilet training:

Teaching your cat to use the toilet can hold several advantages for any cat owner. The biggest advantage of having your cat use a toilet is that eliminates most of the disadvantages that using cat litter holds. Cat litter is expensive. After toilet training your cat, you won't ever need to buy cat litter again. Cat litter boxes needs to be cleaned regularly or they will become smelly. With cat toilet training, the water in the toilet masks most of the offending smell and all you need to do is flush regularly - much simpler and easier than cleaning a litter box. Going away for weekends or holidays also becomes easier for your neighbor - instead of asking someone to clean out the litter box, all they need to do is flush your toilet once in a while (when they come around to water your plants and feed your cat).

How to toilet train a cat (do it yourself):

Toilet training your cat depends entirely on the cat's personality. Toilet training sociable cats that love being praised make the training task much easier. You might want to adapt the toilet training technique described below to fit your cat's personality. Training your cat to use the toilet can take anything between 2 weeks up to 3 months, depending on the individual cat's personality.

Cat toilet training basically consists of a simple procedure: gradually moving your cat's litter box closer and closer to the toilet, finally placing a bowl with cat litter inside the toilet, and removing it altogether when your cat is comfortable and used to it. Toilet training a cat is a gradual, step-by-step process, consisting of making small changes to the location of the litter box and only continuing to the next step when your cat is entirely comfortable with its current situation. You might have to wait anything between 2 days or 3 weeks before moving on a next step in cat toilet training. You might even have to go back a step once or twice when it turns out that your cat wasn't ready to move on to the next toilet training step. Beware - cat toilet training takes a lot of patience!

Cat toilet training steps:

1. Start gradually moving your cat's litter box nearer to the toilet until finally it should be next to the toilet. Ensure that your cat is always comfortable and sure of its litter box's location.

2. Now start elevating the cat's litter box. Put something non-slippery like newspapers or cardboard underneath the litter box. A normal rate to increase the height of the litter box would be about 5cm a day, but be very attentive to signs that your cat is not comfortable with the current height, and adjust the pace of raising the litter box accordingly. The cat litter box should be raised until it is at a level height with the toilet bowl. Throughout this process it is very important to keep the toilet lid open and the seat down, because your cat will get used to it and might even start climbing on the toilet seat in order to reach its litter box.

3. Move the litter box to rest on the open toilet seat. Keep it there until your cat seems comfortable with this arrangement.

4. Buy a metal bowl or tray that will fit snugly inside the toilet bowl. It would be advisable for the metal bowl to have small draining holes. Fill the bowl with cat litter (preferably the flushable type). Now remove your cat's litter box entirely. If you have reached this step successfully you are very close to having a toilet trained cat!

5. While your cat is using the metal bowl inside the toilet, be attentive to where its paws are. The goal is teaching him to squat with all four paws on the toilet seat rim. You can move the cat while it is using the toilet and praise it (or reward it) when it is sitting in the correct position. Normally the cat will first sit entirely inside the metal bowl, then with front paws on the toilet seat, and finally it should sit with all four paws on the toilet.

6. Start using less and less cat litter. This can get smelly, so be sure to clean the bowl after every time your cat uses it. Cats scratch in sand or cat litter to cover up the smell (this is out of instinct), so if the bowl becomes too smelly your cat won't be comfortable using it (and you probably wouldn't be comfortable with using your toilet either). Using flushable cat litter makes cleaning the bowl very easy - just throw out the contents in the toilet and flush down, rinse out the bowl, refill with correct amount of cat litter and replace. A handy tip is to place newspaper on the floor around the toilet to help keep the room clean should your cat scratch in the cat litter. Decrease the amount of cat litter in a pace that your cat feels comfortable with.

7. When you basically don't use any cat litter inside the bowl anymore, start gradually filling the bowl with water. The water will also help mask the smell so your cat will be more comfortable using the toilet. Be attentive to your cat's behavior through this whole process - if your cat stops using the bowl inside the toilet, you may be moving on too fast and might need to go back a couple of steps.

8. When the water level in the bowl has reached about 4cm and your cat has no problem using it, it is time to remove the bowl entirely. Your cat should now be toilet trained. Remember to always leave the toilet seat up and flush regularly!

Products to assist you in toilet training your cat:

There are several cat toilet training kits available on the market. They basically consist of a tray that fits inside the toilet, and with a hole in the middle that you can gradually make bigger. When choosing a cat toilet training kit, ensure that you buy quality. The cat training kit should not be flimsy and should be able to support your cat's weight even when the hole becomes large. Be aware of cheap, flimsy products you buy at toy stores or pet stores, because if your cat falls in, it might loose interest in toilet training completely.

The disadvantages in toilet training your cat:

Not everyone agrees that cat toilet training is such a great idea. They argue that it is unnatural for a cat to use a toilet, as it goes against their natural instincts to cover up their smell. Toilet seats can also be slippery and there might be the risk of your cat injuring itself. Even if your cat doesn't fall in at all, he may become anxious whenever he uses the toilet and going to the toilet can become an unpleasant task.

A litter box also has the health benefit in that you can easier monitor your cat's urine for signs of infections or sickness.

Moving locations will also be harder for the cat, because a litter box can be moved easily but the cat will first need to get used to using the new toilet. With some cats this is no problem and they can become comfortable with the new toilet very fast, while other cats might be less adaptable.

Things to remember when toilet training a cat:

The most important thing to remember is that the toilet training should be done gradually. Be very patient and never rush to the next step until you are sure that you cat is completely comfortable with the current setup.

Make using the toilet as easy as you can for the cat. Always remember to keep the toilet seat up and the bathroom door open. When you have guests, ensure that they also know about considering your cat. Flush the toilet regularly as cats do not like using smelly toilets.

Claudine du Plessis is a cat-lover and webmaster of http://www.cat-urine.net

Keeping Your Feline Friend Fresh with Pine Cat Litter

Cat litter has definitely provided a lot of pet and homeowners with so much convenience. Before cat lovers had to put up with the unbearable stench of cat urine and feces but thanks to cat litter, Pussy's excrements are easy to eliminate and no longer as bad smelling. There are many different kinds and brands of cat litter in the market and one of the best of them all is pine cat litter.
Cat litter is used as a filling material for cat litter boxes where house cats defecate or urinate. The cat litter is supposed to absorb the moisture and reduce the bad smell coming from urine and feces, making the litter box more bearable at home. Pine cat litter fulfills these roles remarkably well, making it one of the best choices as a litter box filler.
There are different kinds of cat litter available in the market, allowing cat owners to choose from the wide variety according to their tastes and purposes. Some cat lovers choose cat litter for their odor control and absorbing power. Others choose cat litter that cannot easily be scattered all over the house. Some buy cat litter because they are biodegradable and environment friendly. Pine cat litter apparently can fulfill these considerations as it quite absorbent, track-resistant, and easy to dispose of.
Pine cat litter is a very much recommended type of cat litter for all cat lovers everywhere. A lot of people who have tried other kinds of cat litter such as clay, silica, sand, have ended up using pine cat litter because of its many advantages. There were people who first doubted using pine cat litter, but eventually they realized that it probably is the best kind of cat litter available commercially.
What Makes Pine Cat Litter So Good
Pine cat litter is a very good choice among other kinds of cat litter. First of all, it is organic - a gift of Mother Nature. It comes from recycled materials and it is in itself recyclable. Pine cat litter comes from biodegradable pine sawdust, it can easily be flushed down your toilet in small amounts. It can also be mixed into your garden soil to be used as compost fertilizer, saving you the need to buy synthetic or commercial plant food.
Pine cat litter also does not contain silica dust, unlike other types of cat litter like clay. Silica dust can be hazardous to health, and it would not be advisable to have them in products like cat litter. The dust particles can go airborne and be inhaled not only by your cat but other members of the family as well and this can cause a lot of problems in the lungs. When inhaled, silica dust can induce bronchitis or even lung cancer. It is not worth the risk to get these diseases just for a cheaper brand of cat litter. Pine cat litter would probably be a better choice for you and your cat in terms of health concerns.
Some cat owners get worried that their cats would not welcome the switch from their old cat litter to pine cat litter. Pine cat litter may have a very different texture from other kinds of cat litter. It usually comes in pellet form unlike the softer texture of other types, which seems to be more comfortable for cats. However, cats are actually tougher than most people think and they can definitely withstand the rougher texture of pine cat litter. Some cats may even like the tough consistency better than the sandy and smooth grain of other cat litter types.
Pine cat litter can be the best choice for you and your cat. It does most, if not everything that you would expect from an excellent cat litter. It is a good absorbent and deodorizer. It is easy to clean up and can even have other uses after consumption. It is safe for your health and that of your cat's. Most of all, it is environment friendly, so you do not have to worry about contributing to the deterioration of the planet.
The next time you buy cat litter for your feline friend, consider getting pine cat litter. It is good for you cat, good for you, and good for the planet. What more can you ask for?







Lee Dobbins writes for http://catlitter.topicgiant.com where you can learn more about cat litter, litter boxes and pine cat litter [http://catlitter.topicgiant.com/Articles/Pine_Cat_Litter.php].

Kidney Failure in Cats - How to Provide the Best Care Possible

Chronic renal failure (CRF) is a common cause of illness in older cats. Unlike some other organs such as the liver, damage to the kidneys cannot be repaired. Signs of renal disease are usually seen once at least 70-75% of the renal tissue has been irreversibly damaged and, once established, CRF is generally a naturally progressive condition. The rate of progression of disease can vary hugely from cat to cat. There is no cure for CRF and in people with this condition, dialysis treatment followed by renal transplantation are the main options. Neither of these treatments are currently available in the UK, although it is possible to improve the quality of life of affected cats by employing a variety of medical treatments tailored according to the individual's needs. In recent years many treatment advances have been made and there are now more options available to owners wishing to care for their cats with CRF. Before discussing these treatments in detail, it is important to consider what normal kidney function is and therefore the range of problems that cats with CRF may have.

In normal cats, the kidneys play many vital roles which include:

Elimination of waste products, drugs and toxins from the body via the urine

Regulation of the body's acidity, electrolyte levels (calcium, phosphate, potassium, sodium and chloride) and water balance

Production of hormones such as erythropoeitin (required to stimulate production of red blood cells by the bone marrow) and renin (important in controlling water and salt balance)

Activation of vitamin D (important in control of blood calcium and phosphate levels)

Regulation of blood pressure

Signs of CRF develop when two thirds to three quarters of renal function has been lost. Cats with CRF are vulnerable to problems including:

Accumulation of protein breakdown products (including urea and creatinine which can be measured in blood samples) which is associated with clinical signs of illness (e.g. nausea, vomiting, loss of appetite)

Dehydration

Acidosis (increased blood acidity)

Electrolyte abnormalities

Anaemia (partly due to lack of production of erythropoeitin)

High blood pressure (systemic hypertension)

CRF cats often show non-specific signs of ill health such as a variable or poor appetite, weight loss, depression and sickness. An increased thirst is seen in about one third of cats with CRF although this clinical sign can also be seen with various other conditions common in middle aged and elderly cats such as hyperthyroidism and diabetes mellitus ('sugar diabetes'). Diagnosis of CRF therefore requires collection of blood and urine samples for analysis. Most commonly a diagnosis is made following identification of azotaemia (accumulation of the protein breakdown products creatinine and urea in the blood) and loss of urine concentrating ability (i.e. the urine is more dilute than it should be). Further tests may be required in some cats to identify the cause of the renal disease. For example ultrasound examination of the kidneys is usually a straightforward technique for identification of polycystic kidney disease (PKD).

Management of cats with CRF involves a range of treatments tailored according to the individual's needs.

What is the ideal diet for cats with kidney problems?

It is common to prescribe specific dietary therapy since this has been shown to improve the quality of life and survival of cats with CRF and may reduce the rate of progression of disease. Renal diets typically have restricted levels of high quality protein which limits the amount of protein breakdown waste products for the ailing kidneys to excrete. Levels of phosphate are also restricted since cats with CRF have a tendency to retain excess amounts of this in the body which can contribute to their feeling unwell. Renal diets have increased amounts of potassium and B vitamins which CRF cats are vulnerable to losing in their urine and increased numbers of calories which helps CRF cats with a poor appetite to maintain a normal body weight. Renal diets usually have lower levels of sodium in them which may help to reduce the risk of high blood pressure developing.

It is possible to prepare home cooked diets for cats with CRF and veterinary recipes are available for this purpose. Most owners do not elect for home cooking protocols as this is very time consuming and therefore not a practical option in most cases.

Cats with CRF often have a poor appetite and this can be exacerbated by offering special kidney diets which may not appeal to the cat. In some cases, the use of appetite stimulants such as the anti-histamine cyproheptidine (trade name Periactin) or anabolic steroids can be helpful in stimulating an adequate appetite. More recently some vets have been treating cats with persistently poor appetites by placing a feeding tube into the stomach. Feeding tubes can be placed into the stomach using endoscopy and are referred to as PEG tubes when this is done (percutaneous endoscopically placed gastrostomy tube). Although an anaesthetic and short period of post-operative hospitalisation is required to place the tube, once in place these can be used for prolonged periods to administer food, liquids and medicines to the cat.

How can dehydration be treated and prevented?

Cats with CRF are vulnerable to becoming dehydrated since they are unable to produce concentrated urine. Encouraging cats to drink and maintain normal hydration is helpful, if possible, and moist diets are probably preferable. Offering flavoured water may encourage cats to drink more (e.g. fish broth) although it is important to not offer salty liquids as these can increase the risk of high blood pressure and other problems developing. Many cats with CRF do however prefer the dry kidney diets and it can be difficult to encourage drinking. In recent years, one treatment that has received a lot of attention is administration of fluids under the skin by the cat's owner (subcutaneous fluid therapy).

This is not currently a common recommendation in the UK although many USA owners of CRF cats are finding it a simple and valuable technique for helping their cat. In severe cases, dehydration may require treatment with intravenous fluid therapy (i.e. cat admitted to a veterinary surgery and placed on a drip). Giving additional fluids at home can therefore be helpful in preventing this. In addition, extra treatments such as potassium can be added to the fluids. Subcutaneous fluid therapy usually involves giving around 150 ml of fluid under the skin twice a week. The technique is well tolerated by most cats and owners include one report of a 19 year old cat with CRF that has been managed for 6 years using subcutaneous fluid therapy as part of the management protocol. If necessary, the regime can be changed to more frequent fluid administration. The owner will be trained in how to perform this technique by a veterinary surgeon or nurse - it is important that the fluid is given correctly in a sterile manner so that infections do not occur at the site of injection. Some cats do not tolerate this procedure and so it may not be suitable for all cats with CRF.

How can electrolyte problems be treated and prevented?

Electrolytes are salts present in the body which are required for normal cellular functions. The most common electrolyte imbalances in CRF cats involve potassium and phosphate. CRF cats are vulnerable to losing potassium in their urine which can cause a reduction in the blood potassium levels (hypokalaemia). Hypokalaemic cats can become very weak and lose their appetite. Although renal diets contain increased amounts of potassium in them, some cats with CRF can still develop low blood potassium levels. Additional potassium can be supplied to these cats as a powder, tablet or liquid.

CRF cats are vulnerable to accumulating phosphate which can make them hyperphosphataemic (have high blood phosphate levels). Oral phosphate binders are drugs which bind to phosphate present in the diet and limit what is absorbed by the cat's bowel. These drugs may be needed in CRF cats whose blood phosphate levels stay high in spite of dietary therapy or in those cats that will not eat a prescription diet.

How can systemic hypertension be treated and prevented?

High blood pressure (hypertension) occurs in 20 - 30% of cats with CRF and can have serious consequences such as blindness. Monitoring of blood pressure is therefore important so that high blood pressure can be identified and treated rapidly where it occurs. Most practices now have facilities to measure blood pressure in cats and this is a technique which is simple, pain free and only takes a few minutes to perform. In those cats requiring treatment, anti-hypertensive drugs (such as oral amlodipine or benazepril) can be prescribed. Most cats need once daily therapy to maintain normal blood pressure.

What other treatments may be needed?

Additional treatments which may be prescribed according to the needs of the cat include:

Erythropoietin: Anaemia is common in cats with CRF and one reason for this is the decreased amounts of erythropoietin produced by the kidneys. Erythropoietin is a hormone that triggers red blood cell production by the bone marrow and treatment of anaemic CRF cats with human erythropoeitin can be helpful in reversing the anaemia. Unfortunately, this treatment can be expensive and may not always have a lasting effect as the human hormone is recognised as a foreign substance by the cat's body which eventually produces antibodies to the drug preventing it from having a useful effect. Another possible side effect of this treatment is development or exacerbation of high blood pressure so cats receiving this treatment need to be carefully monitored. There is research underway in two US universities to develop a feline erythropoietin which would be much more helpful and should not result in antibody production by the cat.

Iron supplementation: Some anaemic CRF cats are iron deficient so measuring iron status and considering iron supplementation may be useful. Iron is required in production of haemoglobin, the oxygen carrying molecule in red blood cells.

Anti-sickness pills for vomiting: cats with CRF may suffer from what is known as uraemic gastritis (inflammation of the stomach due to retention of waste products and hormones which the kidneys normally excrete). Anti-sickness treatments including antacids and anti-vomiting drugs can be very helpful at treating this problem which may help the cat to feel much better.

Prevention and treatment of acidosis: Cats with CRF are vulnerable to becoming acidotic (ie their blood is more acid than it should be). This has many consequences all of which make the cat feel more unwell. Where at all possible, cats with CRF should not be fed acidifying diets (these diets are often prescribed for cats with lower urinary tract problems such as cystitis and bladder stones) as this increases the likelihood of acidosis. Treatment for acidosis involves use of drugs like sodium bicarbonate.

Calcitriol (vitamin D therapy). Although still somewhat controversial, many clinicians have used this treatment in certain selected CRF patients and found it beneficial at maintaining normal blood levels of calcium and phosphate.

ACE (angiotensin converting enzyme) inhibitors such as benazepril (Fortekor®, Novartis): This treatment has recently been advocated based on research in people with CRF in which ACE inhibitors were found to increase the survival times. Data from a recent clinical trial in cats with CRF suggested that cats receiving this therapy had a better quality of life (as assessed by their owners), a reduction in the amount of protein they were losing in their urine and slightly increased survival times. Fortekor did not reduce the parameters used to assess renal function (e.g. blood urea and creatinine levels). In the same clinical trial, a specific sub-set of cats with CRF which were losing large amounts of protein in their urine showed an excellent response to Fortekor® treatment (dramatically improved survival, appetite and weight gain). Unfortunately this manifestation of CRF accounts for only a small proportion of all cats with CRF.

ACE inhibitors also lower the blood pressure and so may be prescribed as anti-hypertensive therapy.

Antibiotics: recent studies showed that up to 30% of cats with CRF suffer from a bacterial cystitis at some point in the course of their disease. In some cats this infection may spread to the kidneys further compromising the renal function. In other cats, the bacterial cystitis is a consequence of bacterial infection of the kidneys (pyelonephritis). Cats with CRF may be more vulnerable to the development of bacterial urinary tract infections since the urine they are producing is so dilute. Unfortunately, in many cases the bacterial infection does not cause signs of cystitis (such as urinating more frequently, straining to urinate and passing bloody urine) which makes diagnosis of this complication difficult. Diagnosis requires collection of a urine sample which is assessed for microscopic evidence of bacteria and inoculated onto bacterial culture media for growth in a laboratory. A course of antibiotics, in some cases for weeks or months, may be needed to successfully eliminate bacterial urinary tract infections.

Other medications not discussed may be required in some cats with CRF and it is important to modify the treatment according to the specific requirements of each individual cat. The FAB website (http://www.fabcats.org/) contains useful information on renal disease as does the following web site which was designed by an owner of a cat with CRF http://www.felinecrf.com/

What is the prognosis for cats with CRF?

The long term outlook for cats with CRF is very variable ranging from a few weeks post diagnosis to many years. CRF is believed to be a progressive condition in most, if not all, cats although the rate of progression may vary considerably according to the cause of the disease and other individual factors. The prognosis is also affected by other issues including whether the cat has any other medical problems which influence its condition and how severe the consequences of renal disease are. For example, cats with anaemia caused by CRF often have a very poor long term prognosis as this is difficult to treat effectively for long periods of time. Owner and veterinary monitoring of affected cats helps to assess the severity of disease and rate of progression which ensures that affected cats receive all of the treatments that they need to help maintain good health. Care of affected cats at home can be very rewarding as well as helpful in ensuring that CRF patients have the best quality of life for as long as possible.

A comprehensive book 'Caring for a cat with kidney failure' by Dr Sarah Caney is available through her website as an e-book or as a printed on demand softback.

Dr Sarah Caney, Chief Executive, Cat Professional
http://www.catprofessional.com/index.html

Learn The Secrets To Keeping Your Cat Healthy And Happy

Keeping a cat as a pet is a very rewarding experience. Cats can provide comfort, companionship, even entertainment. However, when something goes wrong and your feline friend is not feeling well, the results can be devastating. Fortunately, there are several simple things you can do to help keep your cat healthy and happy.

Keeping your cat up-to-date on the necessary vaccinations will go a long way toward keeping your cat healthy and happy. Vaccinations ("shots") can help keep your cat from getting many of the serious diseases which can make your cat sick, or even perhaps threaten your cat's life. Your cat's individual lifestyle and situation will determine which vaccinations your cat needs to have and how often these vaccines need to be given. Your cat's veterinarian can help you determine what is right for your cat. Do not make the mistake of assuming that your cat does not need vaccinations if your cat lives indoors and never goes outside. This is simply not true, and there are diseases which your cat may be at risk for even if he/she never ventures outside. Nothing is more frustrating than watching your cat suffer through an illness that could easily have been prevented. If you do not know which vaccinations your cat needs, or whether your cat is up-to-date on these vaccines, please contact your veterinarian right now to find out.

Your cat also needs to be tested for feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus (also called feline AIDS). These viruses are common and are passed from one cat to another. The viruses can be passed to kittens from their mother as well. A positive test for either of these viruses indicates that your cat has been exposed to that particular virus. If your cat is positive, his/her immune system may be compromised and your cat needs to observed even more closely. Veterinary care should be sought at the first sign of even mild disease symptoms. A positive test also indicates that your cat could potentially spread the disease to other cats, so your cat should be isolated from other cats if he/she is positive for either feline leukemia or feline AIDS.

Fleas and ticks can not only make your cat very itchy and uncomfortable, they can also carry disease which can cause serious illness for your cat. In addition to causing problems for your cat, fleas and ticks can also attack people, and can spread disease to us as well. You should make a habit of checking your cat's coat regularly for fleas and ticks and act immediately if you find evidence of these creatures on your cat. Fortunately, with the products we have available today, controlling or, better yet, preventing fleas and ticks is very simple. There are many products available that are safe, effective, and simple to use. Often, monthly application is all that is needed. Even cats which live indoors can get fleas. Fleas are small enough to sneak inside very easily. Preventing fleas and ticks will help keep your cat comfortable and healthy.

Preventing intestinal parasites, commonly called "worms", is also important in keeping your cat healthy. Finding out whether your cat has worms is as easy as collecting a sample from your cat's litter box and taking it to your cat's veterinarian for testing. You should do this regularly. If you see worms in your cat's feces, you should collect the worm, along with the feces, and take it to your cat's veterinarian. However, you should not assume that your cat does not have worms because you are not seeing them yourself. Your veterinarian will use special laboratory techniques to check for worm eggs which you cannot see.

Spaying or neutering your cat is another simple way to help keep your cat healthy. Spaying your female cat not only keeps your cat from coming into "heat" and becoming pregnant, but spaying also provides many health benefits for your cat. Spayed cats do not develop the serious, life-threatening uterine infections which are fairly common in cats which are not spayed. And spaying your cat at a young age will also dramatically lower the chances of breast cancer occurring later in life.

For male cats, neutering helps prevent unwanted litters of kittens. However, it also makes living with your male cat more pleasant. The odor of your cat's urine will be more tolerable if neutered, and he is not as likely to "spray" (urinate) inside of your house. He is also more likely to stay at home and less likely to get into cat fights if neutered. Neutering (or spaying) your cat will only improve your cats personality.

Regular physical examinations by your cat's veterinarian are also mandatory to help keep your cat healthy. Often, a thorough physical examination will find evidence of a health problem while the problem is still in the early stages. Many illnesses are more easily treated when detected early, and treatment is often more successful as well. Finding and treating health problems early can save your cat a great deal of suffering and even extend your cat's life by many years.

Copyright 2006 The Pet Med Site

Lorie Huston has been a veterinarian for over 20 years, working with both dogs and cats. She emphasizes the use of routine preventive pet health care to keep your pets healthy and safe. Lorie is the owner, editor, and webmaster of The Pet Med Site where you will find a library of information pertaining to pet health care, including free audio recordings describing the secrets to keeping your dog or cat healthy. For more information, visit http://www.thepetmedsite.com/cat-health/

Nothing's Unhappier Than a Fat Cat

Do you have a fat cat? Dog and cat obesity is the number one pet health problem that vets see today. Our pets are as susceptible to obesity as humans are. Of course, you love your cat and want the best for it. You make sure to treat it well and provide for its needs.

You may be treating your cat a little too well. If your cat is obese, it is at risk for diseases such as diabetes, Hepatic Lipidosis (fat seeping into the liver cells), and arthritis.

Just like humans, if a cat (or any other mammal for that matter) takes in more calories than its body can burn, the cat will gain weight. Forty percent of all cats in the United States today have a diagnosis of sedentary obesity and that percentage is growing.

In the wild, a cat expends a lot of energy to hunt down and catch its prey. Cat's bodies are designed to store nutrients when hunting is slim. A domestic cat that lives indoors doesn't have to hunt. Food is right there waiting for felines any time they want it - the perfect environment for a fat cat.

Many people refuse to see the fact that too much food is the cause of their fat cat and its weight problem. You may not be feeding your cat many treats, but you may be feeding them too much at one time, too often, or not enough meals in a day.

A cat that gets food once a day tends to gorge in case there won't be a next meal. Veterinarians suggest that you serve your cat two to four meals a day - and think in ounces, not cups. 0.6 to 1.0 ounces per serving is plenty.

Cats were never made to digest carbohydrates. Humans and dogs have special enzymes in their saliva to break down carbohydrates in the mouth. Researchers have found that cats have considerably less of these enzymes than we do. Dry pet food can have high amounts of carbohydrates (usually in the form of flour or sugar).

Dry cat food diets are not always the best for your cat's metabolism. The carbohydrates are immediately converted to fat and the result is a fat cat. Cats need a meat-based diet with high levels of protein. Research shows that diets high in fat and protein are best for carnivores such as cats - combined with plenty of exercise.

A lot of pet foods claim to be "perfectly balanced". The only way your cat is going to get its true, proper diet is if it was living in the wild. Popular brands of canned food use many fillers, such as grain, to make the food more visually appealing to the owners.

Yes, that's right; the food is produced to be appealing to you and not the cat. Grain is a replacement for real meat that your cat needs more than the carbohydrates grains provide.

Pre-packaged treats are another problem that create a fat cat. A treat once in a while is fine. However, owners make a habit of doling out treats far too much when they think the cat is restless or want to reward it for being cute. Never give your cat a treat to stop it from meowing, as this will only encourage your cat to vocalize more.

In effect, you're telling your cat "Good kitty! Keep talking and I'll give you another one of these treats!" If you must give your cat a treat, try giving it a small piece of cooked fish or chicken, something that is high in protein and better for the cat.

Of course, exercise is important to avoid a fat cat. If you can't change what your cat eats, you can at least try to help your cat burn extra calories. Unfortunately, you can't go for walks with your cat like you would a dog. Some cats might take to leash training, but it's rare.

A typical domestic cat's day consists of sleeping, eating, sleeping, and then waking up to sleep some more. If you have a fat cat, those habits will only increase as its weight slows it down. You need to provide your cat with toys and interesting things to do.

A cat needs to chase things, play hide and seek, stalk, and do something other than take naps in its favorite sunny window! If you can, get a second cat. The two cats will keep each other busy during the day while you're away at work.

Before starting any diet plan for your fat cat, bring the cat to a veterinarian. Your vet will give your cat a thorough physical exam and discuss with you exactly what options you have at hand to help your cat lose weight.

Mike Selvon owns a number of niche portal. Please visit our cats portal for more great tips on treating a fat cat, and leave a comment at our cats [http://www.mynicheportal.com/pets-animals/nothings-unhappier-than-a-fat-cat] blog.

Nutrition and Cats!

Now what do we feed our cats? Here is a subject that has so many pros and cons I could fill up 10 to 15 pages and still not come to a convincing conclusion. It boils down to commercial processed food versus natural foods plus the question do we feed our pets vitamins and supplements, too.

What really is natural pet food? The first thing that comes to mind is raw, unadulterated food. Actually mice and birds with maybe a squirrel or two thrown in are natural foods for a cat. Eating any one of these critters would provide your cat with all the proper nutrition it would need to live a long and healthful life.

According to the Pet Food Committee of the AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) "natural" as it relates to pet food is a food or ingredient derived solely from a plant, an animal or a mined source. It can either be in it's natural state (raw) or processed by several means including cooking. The food per se remains "natural" as long as it has not been subjected to a chemical synthetic process and does not contain any additives that are chemically synthetic. Prophylene Glycol and BHA are two examples of chemically synthesized ingredients. Now don't you feel smarter?

Commercial pet food manufacturers have set recommendations given to them by AAFCO that set the standards for providing vitamins and minerals for our pets in their food. These standards do not provide the optimum level of vitamins and minerals needed. They only provide enough needed to prevent our pets from having a vitamin and mineral deficiency.

In an ideal world all commercially prepared pet food would provide our pets with a completely healthy and balanced diet. Not even the very best canned or dry food made for cats is perfect. There is not a 100% balanced and complete food to be found anywhere, no matter what the label says. Pet food for the most part is processed by heat and as we know heat destroys vitamins and enzymes. Even frozen and freeze-dried pet foods are not the "100% perfect food" to feed your pet.

The ASPCA believes "if your pet is eating a healthful balanced diet of high quality food, then vitamin supplementation is not necessary."

I believe that statement is true for the most part, however here in the world of humans, we try to eat right and still find it necessary to take vitamins and supplements to offset the processed foods we eat.

So what is the answer, when it comes to caring for our cats. One

thing I know for certain is that it is very important as a cat parent that you refrain from adding supplements to your cat's diet without first consulting your vet. The workings of a cat's internal system is very different than that of a dogs and many supplements and/or people medications can cause serious problems for a cat. It is very possible to "over dose" your pet with vitamins and other supplements. Our motto is "when in doubt" call your vet before you try any thing new.

The purpose of this chapter is not to reform any of you, but to inform and enlighten you to the options open regarding feeding your cat. First of all I will tell you the story of our 3 cats and what they eat. At our house we are very open-minded, we are aware of good nutrition for ourselves and we follow a healthy diet (with no extremes). We work every day and are in very good health. The same is true for our cats (no they don't work, but are in very good health.) If our physician and our vet had to depend on us for support, they both would have become street people.

Miss Tiger, our 9 year old eats a variety of canned cat food (no one particular brand), she also eats different varieties of dry cat food (small amounts) plus lightly cooked chicken and lean pork, which has to have some garlic on it or she won't eat it. She does not like beef raw or cooked. Once in awhile she has some milk and cheddar cheese (which I grate). Tiger has maintained her same weight for the last 6 years. Her teeth are perfect, no tartar build up. She gets special treats that help reduce hairball problems, a cat vitamin twice a week (ground up and added to her food) and goes to the vet once a year for her shots and a checkup for parasites (never had any). Miss Tiger is an indoor/outdoor cat.

Boots, our 14 year old eats the same diet that Miss Tiger does with one exception, he eats raw beef. He, too is one mean lean machine. His weight never varies, his teeth are perfect and he is extremely healthy. I will add he is a Tuxedo cat (black and white) with the softest fur I have ever felt and for whatever reason remains flea free. I have read that some Tuxedo cats are that way and he is one of them. He too, is an indoor/outdoor cat.

Smokey, our 8 year old, is a complex individual. Smokey was born that way; we acquired him when he was approximately 2 days old. As soon as he was old enough to eat kitten food, he wouldn't. He would consider some cooked chicken, but cat food NEVER. Smokey was born with many physical problems, which is most likely why his mother abandoned him and a litter mate that we could not save. He could not use his back legs and we truly thought he would have to have a small 2-wheel cart attached to his back legs to help him become mobile. Our vet couldn't give us any advice regarding the fact he would not eat cat food other than don't feed him for a few days and then he will eat what you put down, not so. Found out later that this could have killed him, as cats cannot go with out food for any great length of time. Needless to say, we no longer have that vet. Smokey would rather starve and he did for a few days as we did try the vet's advice (unwillingly). What was wrong with his back legs remained a mystery.

A fellow cat lover friend brought me a book on natural cat care. I am sorry I don't know the name or author of the book, as I just copied a few pages out of it. However, there was a recipe for a Vita-Mineral mix which I mixed with baby food (sweet potatoes and corn plus baby food lamb) and a little water and put it in a kitten bottle and started feeding this to Smokey twice a day. Smokey drank this along with eating some cooked chicken and raw beef. Slowly, but surely he started using his back legs wobbly at first, but with gradual improvement. Today, Smokey is a beautiful cat, very healthy and can jump up on the couch or bed (can't jump much higher, but that's okay with me. What does he eat? He is a raw beef cat, but will also eat cheddar cheese (only if it is grated) and he gets a bottle every evening. I have varied the formula and I now feed him a cat vitamin (it gets ground in a small coffee grinder) that contains all the vitamins and minerals a cat needs and I mix in the baby sweet potatoes and corn plus some canned kitten food and water. As with the other two, Smokey is an indoor/outdoor cat and is one of the best mousers around. He brings us presents several times a week, as we live in Florida and have citrus trees and fruit rats (I prefer to think of them as large mice).

For those of you that might be interested in the recipe or have a need for something that is really great for your cat here is the formula. It is rather like building a mouse (your cat's best food source.)

Cat Formula

Vitamin - Mineral Mix

1 ½ cups of brewer's yeast

¼ kelp powder (We could only find tablets, we ground them)

1 cup lecithin granules

2 cups of wheat bran

2 cups of bone meal, calcium lactate or calcium gluconate

Mix together and store in an air tight covered container (glass or plastic). Be sure to keep it in the refrigerator. Add a teaspoon of the Vita Mix to your cat's food twice a day. This is extremely healthy and it will do wonders for your cat.

Whether you are looking to supplement a commercial diet or just boost your cat's nutrition a bit you need to remember that vitamins and minerals work together supporting the absorption and assimilation of each other. This means the vitamins and supplements work in tandem with each other and too much of one and not enough of another can create problems. Before you embark on changing your cat's diet or adding anything to it consult your vet or your pet practitioner. The vitamin I am using now for all three cats is a Hartz cat vitamin that contains everything a cat needs (it's like a multi vitamin for cats.) It can be found in most grocery stores and pet stores, the price is very reasonable.

Now back to my discussion about processed cat food. Every day, we (you and me) feed our cats either dry or canned food. We buy the best (we think) for them. We read labels, watch the ads on TV and talk to our vet. We do our best to find that 100% complete and balanced food to feed our pets.

Here's where it get complicated, just think about this, how do "they" know it is 100% complete and balanced. There is nothing in this world, especially in the world of nutrition that is 100% complete.

Take dry food for instance. You see a label that says "complete and balanced" on your cat food. Dry food is so convenient and easy to serve and our cats seem to love it. Consider this question "why does it not grow stale?" Could the preservatives be the answer? What are they? Dry food is relatively inexpensive. Why? Could it be because it is generally made of corn or other grains? Grains are high in carbohydrates and low in valuable nutrition. Have you ever seen any meat in the packages? Did you know that dry dog food was invented 60 -70 years ago as a spin off of our cereal industry?

Buying the least expensive food for your cat will in truth cost you more in the long run. The less expensive foods have more grain and fillers and more than likely they have "by products" which you don't even want to know about. With the better grade of cat food your pet more than likely will eat less. It will be more filling and satisfying. It will have more of the nutrients that your pet needs and you will have a healthier pet. Keep in mind that cats cannot readily digest carbohydrates; too many carbs can cause diabetes in cats. Cats are carnivores (meat eaters) dogs are omnivores (meat and plant eaters). Your pet is part of your family and a healthy pet is a happy one.

First of all nutrition is not a completed science, it is a science based on other sciences, such as chemistry, physics and biology. Have you ever heard of a scientist exclaiming to the world that everything in his or her field is 100% true? I haven't. To claim that a pet food is 100% this or that is saying that it is perfection. Do you believe that nutritionists have gained all that knowledge? I don't.

Feeding your pet (cat or dog) requires common sense. You use common sense in feeding your family. Think about the pet food manufacturing companies, they are in business to sell pet food and believe it or not to make money.

Granted there are some companies that do their best to produce a food that meets the high standards of the AAFCO and other organizations. Just about anyone can create and produce a commercial pet food, however nutrition is a serious business and we need to be aware of what our pets are eating

The question here is what do you do about it? Like I said in the beginning there is much to be said about feeding your pet (cat or dog) and like you, I don't have all the answers. What I am going to do here is make a list of things to watch out for when buying processed foods and give you an idea of some "people food" that is really healthy for your cat. This is by no means the "pet food bible." It is just my thoughts and observations from many years of many animals. Did I mention that we have 6 children that might give you an idea of the number of pets that have passed through our lives? Not only have we lived with cats and dogs throw in a few baby squirrels, horses, some birds, a few fish and a few resident snakes. Right now I have visiting possums, a raccoon, and a tortoise or two.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

1. Refrain from buying commercial pet products that contain "animal by products" this is very scary, you have no idea what kind of by products and if they were healthy. Organ meats are acceptable.

2. Do not buy foods that have artificial coloring or preservatives like propylene glycol, sodium nitrite, BHA or BHT.

3. Realize those pet foods, even the ones that are well rated usually are cooked, cooking usually destroys most of the beneficial enzymes, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.

4. Just a gentle reminder that cats are carnivores and will enjoy some fresh meat in their diets. Which means cats require a very high protein and low fat diet. Vegetables just really don't cut it with cats, however there are a few that enjoy a nibble or two of corn and some other vegetables.

5. Do not treat your cat as a small dog. Cats need protein; they need taurine, which is important for their eyesight, cardiovascular system and their reproductive system.

6. Cats have strange eating habits, ours like to snack many times a day, others respond to a morning and evening feeding. Cats will adjust to your schedule if you just give them a chance

Our cats are a prime example of good health, we do mix processed foods along with raw and in the case of Miss Tiger her food is lightly cooked as she does not like raw meat as the boys do. Miss Tiger and Boots get a cat multi vitamin twice a week, while Smokey gets one every day in his bottle as his diet is basically devoid of food that cats should eat. Meat and cheese though great in a cat's diet do not provide all the nutrients a cat needs to be healthy.

Should you be a person that feels you need to be cooking for your cat, there are many great recipes on the Internet for making gourmet cat meals. These are all healthy foods that will make your pet happy and make you feel good, too. Home cooked meals are fine for your cat, but in truth you will not be providing all the necessary nutrients that will keep your cat healthy. A cat's body is unique and requires nutrients in certain proportions that we as average pet parents cannot provide. So give your cat home cooked treats once in a while, but follow your vet's advice regarding your cat's diet most of the time.

Use your common sense in feeding your pets, doing things in moderation never hurt anyone, besides variety is the spice of life. You enjoy new tastes and new adventures and just maybe your pets will too.

Bon Appetite!!!

If you are thinking of getting a cat or would like more informative information about raising a cat, I have a great book on cat care called "So! You Want to Get a Cat" available on Amazon.com. Also, if this article has been of benefit, please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

Pet Porte Microchip Cat Flap - A Doorman For Your Cats

Do you love cats? If so how many cats do you have? Is your cat well behaved?

How many times do you consider your cat's safety? Does your cat return home safely at nights, without any rashes or bruises that are indeed created by other cats?

How certain are you that only your cat eats the food that you give them and they are not being joined by other cats when you are out? Most of the cat lovers would be finding it difficult to answer these questions.

Indeed these are the daily problems faced by cat lovers. These questions make the cat lovers feel worried about their dearest pets.

Most cat owners know how worrying it is when their cat goes missing for a day or more. Is there a remedy for all these hard moments? If at all there is a solution, will it guarantee on the safety and security of the pet? What can be done to stop these kind of problems for good?

Can your cat be safe from being bullied by other stray cats? Can your cat be safe in indoor without escaping, if the weather outside is very terrible and violent? The good news is that there is a very easy answer to all these questions. And of course that answer is Yes!

The antidote for all these physical and environmental threats that are literally experienced by the owner and the pet has now come to light. It comes in the form of a special cat flap called the Pet Porte Smart Flap.

The Pet Porte microchip cat flap is the first cat flap that effectively keeps other cats out. It provides an enhanced level of security that makes cats lives and the owners lives much better.

This is a Collarless technology, which indeed keeps the pet away from hard and rough collars which leaves a mark on the neck of the pet.

The Pet Porte microchip cat flap was invented and patented by David Chamberlain, one of Guernsey's leading vets, which is the first in a series of inventions that will be coming onto the market intended to make your life, and your cat's life, more enjoyable.

Pet Porte is the world's first cat flap to stop other cats from entering your home and it recognises your cat without the need for electronic or magnetic cat collar attachments, heavy collar tags, restrictive collars or infra red.

The technology is completely safe and cats will not even notice that they are being scanned when they approach the door.

Cats love to use the Pet Porte microchip cat flap and it keeps them safe. The Pet Porte microchip cat flap is easy to use, and it's simple to program your cats in, most probably the user of this Pet Porte product will not require you to constantly refer to the manual, because everything is operated from just two buttons, one red and one green.

One the cats that you program in are allowed entry. You can program in up to 32 cats. The door is extra strong and cannot be bashed open..

In the Pet Porte microchip cat flap there are two distinct modes worth mentioning.

Two of the most popular modes are the VET MODE and the NIGHT MODE:

You can use the VET MODE whenever you want to keep your cats indoors. When you activate the NIGHT MODE your cats can always come back inside but they will not be able to get out when it is dark, they will be kept in until it is light again in the morning. These two modes make the Pet Porte microchip cat flap unique to all other cat flaps on the market.

The Pet Porte Smart Flap is very easy to install and operate.

Programming the Pet Porte is again a very short and simple process, as there are no complex steps involved, indeed the whole installation is only a single step process.

Simply hold down the green button for ten seconds and release. The lights start to flash. Then hold your cat under the outside sensor. It beeps three times. That is all the owner has to do, in order to finish with the programming process, in this same method an average of 32 different cats (approx) can be programmed.

There may be a question arising among the users that what actually happens when the pet is made to pass through the Pet Porte. When the cat is approaches the Pet Porte the intelligent sensors present in the sensor porch of the cat flap recognizes the existing microchip ID implants, the door unlocks only for your cats. Stray cats or neighbours cats, even those with microchips, are not allowed access because they are not programmed in.

This adorable product uses an adapter that is fixed directly to the power supply, rather than using batteries which may run out frequently or unexpectedly. The current is safe because it is low voltage, and its not at all harmful for the cat by any means, so there is no chance of short circuits, even if the cat chews or pounces on the lead, as the voltage is very low. Even if the cat flap is disconnected from the power it will always remember your cat's microchip numbers.

The major characteristics of the magic door that is used in the Pet Porte is that its highly tensile and strong as it has the capacity to withstand the pouncing/attacks,even if it is created by the toughest cat around on the streets.

Because the cat flap is powered by AC adaptor, the magic door unlocks at the blink of an eye, i.e. in just few microseconds, so that you're lovable cat can enjoy its play with the Pet Porte, even if she/he loves to dash in and out at speed.

The Pet Porte is friendly device to your pet, and it is designed in such a way that, there will not be any possibilities in which the tail or the paws of the pet getting stuck. Eventually there are no possibilities for other stray cats to enter, thus making your cat feel free and relaxed at all times.

The Pet Porte microchip cat flap has many clever features which makes it unique and reliable when compared to all the other cat doors. In fact the other cat doors on the market such as traditional, magnetic and infrared flaps all have their own disadvantages at different situations.

With traditional cat doors the result is that within one night the owner can see his house ruined i.e. his curtains torn, urine all over the wall, the cat food missing from its tray, the pet left with the marks of being bullied-all these are the problems created by none others than the neighbours cats. Thus these are the adverse effects caused when traditional type flaps are used.

Secondly, comes the magnetic cat flaps, all the cats with magnetic collars can gain access through the door, this is a major drawback. And the other issue is that, magnetic collars are heavily and tight, that makes the pet feel uncomfortable.

Thirdly comes the infrared cat flaps, these have sensors both at the transmitting and receiving ends and the door opens only if the sensor in the collar points directly to the sensor on the door. These Infrared cat flaps are expensive too.

Finally all these disadvantages experienced when using other cat flaps are in turn changed into an merit when the Pet Porte microchip cat flap is installed.

ADVANTAGES OF THE PET PORTE MICROCHIP CAT FLAP

The Pet Porte microchip cat flap was designed to be the best cat flap in the world. The irritation caused by the collar on a cat can be avoided by the use of the cats existing microchip. With the help of the locking mechanism, stray cats can be kept out.

The pains of calling your cat in at night is no longer an issue because the cat flap can detect the light level automatically and help to keep your cats in at night.

With the presence of the Pet Porte microchip cat flap, you will be able to know, if your cat inside the house or elsewhere, the beeping system of the Pet Porte will make you aware of the presence of your cat inside the house. You can easily switch the beep off if it makes your cats nervous.

The presence of a magnetic latch in the Pet Porte keeps the flap intact when the wind blows therefore protecting the cats from getting hurt.

The simple two button operation mechanism gives a full control over your cats world.

The microchip cat flap allows you to program up to 32 cats of your liking and only the cats which are programmed in are allowed access.

The programmable memory within the Pet Porte prevents the loss of information about your cats if the power is disconnected.

All of this comes under low voltage intake with no batteries to replace so your cat will never get locked outside.

This product is cat friendly and makes it virtually impossible for your cat to get its paws stuck in the door. Hence the Pet Porte microchip cat flap is a divine product that has been launched to quench the thirst of concerned cat lovers, and it is now available to cat lovers worldwide.

Many customers say that it makes them feel comfortable and relaxed at nights rather than worrying about their pets, since there is a friend there at the door step providing the most sophisticated level of security to the lovable kitties.

You can order online from Microchip Cat Flaps - a website recommended by Cats Protection, leading vets and Your Cat magazine.